Archivi del mese: settembre 2018

Formlabs Form 2 Review – Best Resin 3D Printer of Fall 2018

Formlabs Form 2 Review – Best Resin 3D Printer of Fall 2018
By Anatol Locker

The Formlabs Form 2 is our pick for the “Best Resin 3D Printer of Fall 2018”. Check out our Formlabs Form 2 review to find out why.

When it comes to 3D printing, FDM printers take all the glory; Ultimakers, Prusas, and Crealitys are talked about constantly. Their machines offer makers, hobbyists, and semi-pros great creative tools. But FDM printers aren’t the only choice when it comes to 3D printing.

If you are looking for professional printers that can deliver stunning details, stereolithography (SLA) machines are the right choice.They work with resin instead of thermoplastics. As of 2018, there are cheap SLA machines targetting hobbyist – and then there’s the category of SLA 3D printers that can be found in labs, professional fabs, universities, and engineering spaces.

Formlabs holds the number 1 position for several years now. At $3,500 / €3,925, their flagship 3D printer Form 2 doesn’t come cheap. But it’s a fraction of the price you would pay for a 3D Systems ProJet 6000 HD.

Don’t Miss:

Also for a desktop machine, the Formlabs Form 2 has a quite powerful optical engine. The 250mW violet laser is guided by custom-built galvanometers, delivering prints in impressive quality. For the purposes of this Formlabs Form 2 review, we didn’t encounter a single misprint.

Formlabs Form 2 Review: Pros

Print quality is brilliant
Easy to setup and maintain
Great interplay of hard- and software
Reliable and predictable results
Good software slicer
Great user interface
Relatively silent operation

Formlabs Form 2 Review: Cons

No print without post-processing
Not faster than FFF 3D printers
Standard support structures are very dense
Changing resin is easier than with the Form 1+, but still no trivial task
Consumables (resin and tank) and the printer are expensive

Formlabs Form 2 Review: The Verdict

If you’re looking for a reliable, professional, high-quality SLA 3D printer, look no further. The Formlabs Form 2 is a workhorse that delivers stunning results.

This high-class SLA 3D printer isn’t aimed at the regular consumer who wants to dabble in 3D printing. It’s for people who have a clear use case and a budget — so we’re talking about semi-professional and professional users.

However, this SLA 3D printer is an excellent machine for prototyping. The Formlabs Form 2 can be a valuable addition to an engineer’s office, a dental lab or a jewelry designer — it really does turn your ideas into reality. It even can be used to manufacture (very) small batches.

What makes this SLA 3D printer interesting is the consistent quality. While FFF printers need a constant balancing of parameters, temperatures, filaments, and extruders, the Formlabs Form 2 just delivers without you having to worry about quality. If you remember the old “Get a Mac” Apple Ads  pointing out the differences between Apple and Windows-PCs — that pretty much sums it up.

But there are drawbacks, and they have to do with SLA technology itself. First of all, working with resin means you will have to do some post-processing. Formlabs offers a special post-production kit for the Form 2, which we found expensive but invaluable.

Secondly, neither the printer nor the resins are a steal. For most people, the price of $150 for a liter of resin is too high, and over the longer term the cost of consumables will add up. Thirdly, the print dimensions are limited to 125 × 125 × 165 mm — if you are prototyping in bigger dimensions, you have to search for alternative solutions.

But if you are looking for a 3D printer that just delivers with (nearly) every single print, you have found your match.

Formlabs Form 2 Review: The Long Read

Before we dig deeper in this Formlabs Form 2 review, here’s a short preamble on the differences between an SLA 3D printer and FFF 3D printer.

Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) is the most common desktop 3D printer technology. A FFF printer feeds plastic filament into a heated extruder and prints layers with the molten material. FFF 3D printers are versatile machines and can use different materials. But most of them lack predictability when it comes to results.

Exactly this predictability is one of the strengths of SLA 3D printers like the Formlabs Form 2. It points a high precision laser on a tray of liquid resin, which causes a thin layer to solidify. This chemical reaction allows for the creation of water-tight printed parts. The 3D printing speed is comparable to FFF machines when comparing layer thickness and density. SLA printers are also known for printing high-detailed objects.

Formlabs Form 2 Review: Unboxing and Setup

Setting up the Form 2 was a breeze. Our Formlabs Form 2 review sample came securely packaged. We found every part nicely labeled. There’s a helpful setup guide on the Formlabs website. Even if you’ve never assembled a printer before, you can do this in no time.

Just put the printer on a flat and sturdy surface (a.k.a. “table”). The dimensions of the printer are 35 × 33 × 52 cm, which is big, but not huge compared to other 3D printers.

Next, you open the orange cover and attach the build platform. If you are new to SLA 3D printers, you might be surprised to find that the build platform of the Formlabs Form 2 hangs upside down… that‘s because the object is “drawn out” of the resin, so to speak.

Formlabs Form 2 Review Build Plate

After that, you put the resin tray in place and click in the tray wiper. The latter is an improvement over the previous generation Form 1-series. Every time a layer is finished, the print bed moves up a little. Then the wiper moves and makes sure the resin is spread equally on the tray. The result? You’ll get fewer misprints.

After this step, you slide the Form 2 resin tank into the printer, plug in the power cord, and start the printer. The tray is automatically filled with resin. We didn’t have to do any calibration (unlike with the Form 1 and Form 1+).

Last stop is adding the Formlabs Form 2 to your wireless network. As an alternative, you can use the USB- or Ethernet ports to transfer files.

All in all, setting up the Formlabs Form 2 didn’t take us more than 1 hour.

Formlabs Form 2 Review: Available Resin Types

Formlabs Form 2 review materials

There are several resin types to choose from. The resins consist of methacrylic acid esters, photoinitiators, proprietary pigment, and other secret ingredients. If you are planning to use your own resins, you will run into problems — the cartridge system of the Formlabs Form 2 is proprietary.

Formlabs offers two flavors of standard resins. The standard resins come in clear, white, gray, and black. A liter of these “bread and butter” resins costs €160 / $150 — that’s not exactly cheap.

The second type of resins for the Formlabs Form 2 are functional resins. They also come in different flavors.

Tough Resin is good if you want to have more durable or resilient prototypes. The standard resin isn’t strong enough for daily use. They break easily. So this is the one you should order if you’re building functional parts. A 1-liter tank costs €160 / $175.
Flexible resin is bendable and compressible. You pay $199 for a liter.
Castable resin is made with jewelers in mind. The resin burns out without ash or residue. The price is $300.
Dental resin is Class 1 biocompatible. It’s designed to directly print surgical or pilot drill guides. If you don’t have a clue what that is, you’ll probably never need to order it. Price is a whopping $399.

But wait, there are other consumables! First, there’s the resin tank, which — according to Formlabs — should be switched out every 2 liters of resin. A tank will cost you €66. It also comes with the wiper.

You can also buy a second build platform if you want to speed up the workflow in an intensive use case scenario.

Formlabs Form 2 Review: Software

Form 2 Review Software

In our Formlabs Form 2 review process, we found the interplay between the software and hardware to be the real beauty of the 3D Printer.

For 3D printing, you need a software slicer to tell the 3D printer what to do. Formlabs have developed their own tool called PreForm. As with other 3D slicers, it lets you import STL files, which are placed on the print bed and displayed in the software. PreForm also auto-repairs broken meshes.

In most cases, you don’t want to 3D print your object directly on the build plate, as you might accidentally scratch it when you try to remove it. To prevent this, Preform invites you to add supports, which are customizable in density and strength. The support structures on the build plate are bent slightly upwards, so you can slide a removal tool under them — that’s clever!

There‘s also a “One Click Print” button, which should be sufficient for most use cases. Unless your 3D object doesn’t fit the printer, you will probably not adjust the size. It’s also possible to place several objects onto the build plate and have it 3D printed in one go.

The software auto-rotates the object and adds support structures where needed. If you’re happy with your results, the software will calculate the layers and give you an estimate on how many layers will be printed and how much resin you’ll need for it. One thing that was somewhat annoying; Preform only shows you the estimated printing time if you click on the field… this should be an easy option to add.

The print is now transferred wirelessly to the 3D printer. If you‘re printing a highly complex and large model, calculating and transferring can take up a few minutes.

To start the print, you have to press a button on the printer itself.

The Formlabs Form 2 will retain most of the 3D prints you’ve already made, so you can start a new print without having to run to the computer again. It’s the little things like these that make this 3D printer a joy to use.

The software can also notify you by mail when the print is finished — that‘s a thing you’d love to see as standard in many FFF 3D printers.

If you’re designing 3D objects, you should know that the minimum supported wall thickness is 0.4 mm, and the unsupported wall thickness is 0.6 mm. A proper design guide can be found at the Formlabs site.

Formlabs Form 2 Review: Printing

It takes the Formlabs Form 2 considerable time to heat up the resin tray to 30 degrees Celsius / 95 degrees Fahrenheit. If you place the printer in a very hot or very cold environment, you might reconsider taking the printer to a more “moderate climate”. When the resin is at the right temperature, the build plate lowers itself into the resin-filled tray.

You can keep track of your print on the touchscreen, on your computer, or even on a smartphone. Formlabs uses a ring in lieu of a progress bar. The outer ring shows the layers, the inner one the progress of the current layer. Also, there’s a constant time estimate of remaining print time.

Over the course of our Formlabs Form 2 review, we found the graphical user interface of the printer to be extremely clear, helpful, and easy to understand. We also liked the LCD touch screen — it’s bright and responsive. The menu isn’t overloaded with information and displays the right choices at the right time. There’s only one button which is used for confirming actions and also serves as the power switch.

Formlabs Form 2 Review Power Switch

The build speed is comparable to FFF machines when comparing layer thickness and density. It’s roughly 1-3 cm/hour along the Z axis when printing at 100 microns. The Formlabs Form 2 can 3D print in 25, 50, and 100 microns.

Formlabs Form 2 Review: Post-Production

Formlabs Form 2 Post Production

Post-production is where SLA printing becomes ugly. If you‘re using an FFF printer, you just pluck the model from the build plate, and you’re usually ready to go. For SLA 3D printers like the Formlabs Form 2, that‘s not the case.

As you’re printing with liquid resin, you will have to remove the print from the plate, immerse it in chemicals, then remove the supports. This can take up a considerable amount of time.

Formlabs offers a finishing kit, which we found extremely helpful. It consists of a rinse station with two buckets, which you partially fill with isopropyl alcohol (IPA).

Formlabs Form 2 Review Finishing Kit

Before you begin post-processing, you should wear protective gloves and eye protection. Avoid breathing in gas, mists, vapors or spray of resin — or any other chemicals — and wash your skin thoroughly after handling. Working with resin is considered to be relatively safe, but in some rare cases, skin irritations and allergic reactions have been reported.

First, you should put on some rubber gloves. Be careful when removing the build plate. As it’s still covered with liquid resin, the “goo” has a tendency to drip. Next, you need the removal tool to slide it under the “quick release tabs” generated by the PreForm software. With larger prints, you’ll need to pry them firmly from the build platform.

Next you rinse the print; drop it in the tank and leave it there for roughly 20 minutes. For smaller parts, reduce the soak time accordingly. A rinse bottle will help you clean any internal channels of your print.

formlabs form 2 Post-Production 2

Allow the (still sticky) print to dry for several hours. As a final step, you remove the support structures with a pair of “flush” cutters. This can be demanding, as the Preform software has the tendency to make the supports a little stronger than needed in order to provide a good print.

In our Formlabs Form 2 review process, we found that too many supports can leave ugly dots on your final print — if you want perfect results, you’ll have to experiment with the support structure settings and also clean them after removing the support. Also, we found it quite hard to remove supports that lie in the inner structures of a delicate print.

You could even break some delicate pieces from your print, as we did in this example.

Formlabs Form 2 Review Misprint

You can then finish your prints by spraying them with acrylic paint, or post-cure them in UV lightboxes. Formlabs provide good support information on priming prints.

Formlabs Form 2 Review: Wrapping up

As we’ve stated several times in our Formlabs Form 2 review — this is a stunning machine! We were very impressed with the quality of results this SLA 3D printer delivered, and it did it constantly.

There are some challengers to their crown. If you consult this list of competitors, you’ll find that most rival machines start at $5000 — so for small budgets, the Formlabs Form 2 stays “best in class.” The cheapest alternative we can recommend is XYZ Printing’s Nobel 1, which only costs $1,900, but is said to deliver less quality (we haven’t reviewed this printer yet).

If you just want to print out high detail models only occasionally, you might be better off ordering from a 3D printing service. The costs of the consumables (trays, resin) for the Formlabs Form 2 add up and will dent a hole in a non-professional budget.

But if you are looking for a reliable, professional, high-quality SLA 3D printer you can use on a daily basis, then look no further. The Formlabs Form 2 is a premium printer that delivers stunning results.

The post Formlabs Form 2 Review – Best Resin 3D Printer of Fall 2018 appeared first on All3DP.

September 4, 2018 at 04:00PM
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Weekend Project: Stash Your Cash in this 3D Printed Secret Coin Bank

Weekend Project: Stash Your Cash in this 3D Printed Secret Coin Bank
By Tyler Koslow

Maker Greg Zumwalt is back on Instructables with another 3D printed coin bank. His latest creation is the Simple Secret Box II, a fully 3D printed coin bank with a secret locking mechanism. 

Searching for a fun way to teach his grandchildren the valuable lesson of saving money, maker Greg Zumwalt decided to design a coin bank with a secret lock mechanism. This resulted in the Simple Secret Box II: Coin Bank, a 3D printing project that will provide you with a secure place to stash your leftover change.

We’ve covered some of Zumwalt’s projects in the past, including a 3D printed Apple Coin Bank that utilized a similar mechanism. His latest coin bank doubles as a kind of puzzle, as the dovetail fixed joinery and a sliding dovetail top makes it tricky to open. The designer based the locking mechanism off of the German designed “Radbox”, which uses two mirror image slotted wheels to keep the box closed.

Furthermore, the Simple Secret Box II functions with no batteries, electronics, motors, or any hardware really. Zumwalt even adds some excitement by refraining to tell us how to open the box, leaving the mystery for you to figure out. All you need to make your own coin bank is a 3D printer and some filament. Let’s take a look at how to make this frugally-minded 3D printing project on your own!

3D Printed Coin Bank: What You Need & How to Build it

As we previously stated, all you need to make the Simple Secret Box II is a 3D printer, so no need to break out your wallet for electronics and other non-printed components. The STL files for this 3D printed coin bank are freely available through Zumwalt’s Instructables page.

There are nine different parts to 3D print, each of which should be 3D printed at .15mm layer height and 20 percent infill. After the parts are all 3D printed, you may need to do some sanding and post-processing in order to ensure smooth movement once everything is put together. The designer also recommends filing all of the edges that came in contact with the print bed, especially in and around the dovetail joinery.

Once you’ve finished 3D printing and cleaning up the parts, it’s time to build your coin bank. The assembly process is quite simple and is laid out in just a few photos. Start by connection the “Side, Left”, “Side, Right”, and “Divider” parts.

Next, using the “End, Lock”, “Cam 1” and “Cam 2” components, slide Cam 2 and Cam 1 onto the axle on end lock. Make sure that these cams can easily pivot on the axle. Align the end lock axle with the hole in the divider and press this assembly onto the end of the sides and divider assembly. You have to rotate the two Cam parts until the flat sides are parallel with the divider.

Use a business card to hold them in place and slide “Top With Slot” into the assembly until it aligns with end lock. Finally, remove the business card and secure the top with the “End” part and press the “Base” onto the bottom. Now you have your very own 3D printed coin bank!

To learn more about how the assembly process and how the secret locking mechanism works, check out the full project description on Instructables.

The post Weekend Project: Stash Your Cash in this 3D Printed Secret Coin Bank appeared first on All3DP.

September 9, 2018 at 05:05PM
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Weekend Project: Stay Hydrated with a 3D Printed Drinks Tap

Weekend Project: Stay Hydrated with a 3D Printed Drinks Tap
By Tyler Koslow

Want to bring the convenience of a soda fountain machine into your own home? Take a refreshing sip from the 3D printed Drinks Tap created by That Robot Guy. 

There are few things in the restaurant world that are as enticing as a free refill, just one more glass of your beloved soft drink. What if you could take the refill machine from the local fast food joint and into your home?

One maker named That Robot Guy has created a 3D printed Drinks Tap that you can build for around $15-$20. This simple robotic machine is essentially made up of a handful of 3D printed parts, along with a pump, switch, and power socket. All you have to do is flip over your favorite soft drink (or a water bottle for the more health-conscious maker) and connect it to the tap, hitting the 3D printed level to get the refreshments flowing.

This 3D printing project has the look and style of a drink refill machine that you’d find in a restaurant. It’s easy to build and the components are pretty easy to acquire. Let’s take a look at what you need and how to build this 3D printed Drinks Tap.

3D Printed Drinks Tap: What You Need & How to Build it

That Robot Guy’s 3D printed Drinks Tap is comprised of six 3D printed parts: the base, support for the switch and nozzle, the nozzle itself, drip tray, the PUSH lever, and tube cover. The STL files are free to download via Thingiverse. The refreshment will flow through PVC tubing, so no need to worry about your drink coming in contact with the 3D printed plastic.

Aside from the 3D printed parts, here’s what else you need to build your own refill machine:

12v DC Water Pump
PVC Tubing (8mm int, 11mm ext)
Power Socket
12V Power Supply
M3x16mm bolts
M3 Nuts
Glue gun
Cable ties

Once you have all of your 3D printed parts and non-printed components prepared, you can move on to the assembly process. Taking your bottled drink, the first step is to cut a 6mm wide on the lid and ensure that it fits over the top of the pump. Once this is verified, attach the bottom of the lid to the pump using your glue gun.

Next, you will need to cut the PVC tubing to measure out to 50cm, connecting one end to the outlet of the pump. After that, it’s time to attach the 3D printed parts to the base, starting with the support piece and nozzle rack with a push fit. Feed the tubing through each part and cut away any excess tubing. Use the M3 bolts to attach the support piece and, once the tubing is fed through the parts, the hose cover as well.

The final few steps consist of soldering the wires on the power supply port, connecting the switch, and connecting the power supply to the power socket. More details on the schematics are available on That Robot Guy’s website. Lastly, mount and screw the bottle onto the pump and flip it over, putting it back onto the mount.

From here, you should be able to start pouring your own refreshments from your very own Drinks Tap. Stay hydrated!

For more information on this project and the assembly process, click here.

The post Weekend Project: Stay Hydrated with a 3D Printed Drinks Tap appeared first on All3DP.

September 8, 2018 at 05:05PM
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FDM vs SLA – 2018 3D Printing Technology Shootout

FDM vs SLA – 2018 3D Printing Technology Shootout
By Franz Grieser


FDM vs SLA: All you need to know about the competing 3D printing technologies, their advantages, and disadvantages of these technologies and which one to use for which purpose.

FDM vs SLA: Explained

Prusa i3 MK3

FDM is the abbreviation for Fused Deposition Modeling. In FDM, a strand of material (in this case: thermoplastics) is deposited in layers to create a 3D printed object. During printing, the plastic filament is fed through a hot extruder where the plastic gets soft enough that it can be precisely placed by the print head. The melted filament is then deposited layer by layer in the print area to build the workpiece.

There is a broad choice of FDM 3D printers for every budget, starting at a few hundred dollars. Filament spools are relatively inexpensive, starting from $25 per kilo. These factors made FDM printers so popular among makers and home users.

You can find the best FDM 3D printers here: 14 Best 3D Printers of Summer 2018

SLA is the abbreviation for Stereolithography Apparatus, or simply stereolithography. Like FDM, SLA is an additive method: Models are built layer by layer. SLA, however, uses a curable photopolymer – typically a liquid resin – that is hardened by applying focused light or UV light (this process is called curing). SLA printers usually build the models from top to bottom, the build platform lifts the model upwards, out of the resin bath.

The light source is either a laser or a digital projector (the technology is often called DLP – Digital Light Processing). Lasers „draw“ the layers; in DLP, an entire slice (a two-dimensional layer) of the model is projected at once into the resin bath.

Laser SLA printers are usually slower than DLP models because of the small surface of the laser beam. In DLP printers, each layer hardens faster as the entire image of one layer is projected onto the resin. Moreover, DLP projectors are more reliable and easier to maintain than customized laser systems as the projectors use the same technology as business and home cinema projectors. The printed models have to undergo a post-processing process, though.

Overall, there are less budget-friendy SLA machines than FDM 3D printers. Resin printers can often be found in a professional context, although the prices came down in the last years.

You can find the best SLA printers here: 25 Best Resin (DLP/SLA) 3D Printers of Summer 2018

FDM vs SLA: Compared

FDM vs SLA: Materials and colors

FDM printers typically use PLA, PETG, or ABS filament. Most FDM printers can handle nylon, PVA, TPU and a variety of PLA blends (mixed with wood, ceramics, metals, carbon fiber, etc.) Filaments are available in various colors. Some manufacturers even offer a service to manufacture RAL colors by demand.

Most FDM printers can use standard filament rolls that are available in two standardized sizes (diameter: 1.75 or 2.85mm) from various sources. A few printers use proprietary filaments or filament boxes – these are typically more expensive than standard rolls but deliver better quality.

Owners of SLA printers have only a more limited pallet of resin materials. Quite often these are proprietary and cannot be exchanged between printers from different makers. The choice of colors is also limited. Formlabs, for example, only offers black, white, grey and clear resins. On the other hand, they offer more durable or highly specialized materials (i.e. dental, heat-resistant, or flexible resins) for industrial uses.

FDM vs SLA: Precision and Smoothness

SLA printers such as the Moonray print with high precision – you get details you wouldn't see in a FDM printed object (image: Sprintray, the creators of Moonray)

In FDM printers, the printer’s resolution is a factor of the nozzle size and the precision of the extruder movements (X/Y axis). The precision and smoothness of the printed models is also influenced by other factors: As the bonding force between the layers is lower than in SLA printing and as the weight of upper layers may squeeze the layers below, a number of printing problems may ensue (e.g. warping, misalignment of layers, shifting of layers, shrinking of the lower parts – for more details see this article). These compromise the precision and surface smoothness.

SLA printers consistently produce higher resolution objects and are more accurate than FDM printers. The reason: The resolution is primarily determined by the optical spot size either of the laser or the projector – and that is really small. Moreover, during printing less force is applied to the model. This way, the surface finish is much smoother. SLA prints show details an FDM printer could never produce.

In fact, the fine details an SLA printer produces is the main reason why one would consider getting an SLA printer.

FDM vs SLA: Adhesion/removal after 3D printing

Adhesion to the print bed is a topic when using an FDM printer. Printed objects can be relatively easily removed – if the object sticks to the print bed, a palette knife will do.

In SLA printers, it can be difficult to remove the printed model from the print platform and often there is a lot of resin left on the platform that you have to remove using a palette knife – and this takes more effort than on an FDM printer. Industrial printer manufacturer Carbon3D even came up with a new idea: They use oxygen to create so-called “dead zone” around the printed model (the oxygen keeps the resin at the surface of the model from hardening).

FDM vs SLA: Postprocessing 

After printing on an FDM printer you need to remove supports (if the model has overhangs) and excess plastic either with your fingers or a cutting tool. Sanding helps to get smoother surfaces. More on supports here: 3D Printing Supports Guide – All You Need to Know

Models printed on an SLA printer such as the Form 1+ are covered in sticky resin that has to be removed in a bath of isopropyl alcohol. This is why you get rubber gloves with most SLA printers – to protect your fingers from the resin and alcohol. Depending on the model, supports may be required, too – removing them is as easy as with FDM printers.

FDM vs SLA: 3D printing costs

Consumable in FDM printers are nozzles and filament rolls. As already mentioned, most FDM printers use the same standardized filament rolls, prices for filament have been declining in the last years. 1 kg of PLA filament can be bought for $25, specialized filaments cost more.

In SLA printers, not only resin is consumed: In SLA printers, the resin tank has to be replaced after 2-3 liters of resin have been printed. The reason is that the tank gets smudged inside over time so the light source is no longer able to precisely project the image in the resin. Depending on the manufacturer and model, resin tanks will set you back around $40 to $80.

Another component that needs replacing from time to time is the build platform as it gets marred when the user removes the printed model; a platform can cost up to $100.

The resin is also costly: 1 liter of standard resin will set you back $ 80 to $150.

FDM vs SLA: Which One to Use?

In a nutshell: If high precision and smooth finish is your top priority and if cost is of no or of minor importance for a print job, use an SLA printer. If cost does play a role, use an FDM printer.

When to use FDM

Rapid prototyping

Building low-cost models

Great for hobbyists and makers

When precision and surface finish isn’t crucial

When to use SLA

When intricate details and/or a very smooth surface finish is crucial

When strength and durability of the model is not crucial (models made from resin may suffer when exposed to the sun for extended periods)

For creating molds for casting to facilitate mass-production (e.g. by jewelry or toy makers)

When to use a 3D printing service

There’s a third option that can save you a lot of money. You don’t have to buy a 3D printer to get something printed, you can use a 3D printing service. You can get more information on 3D printing services in this article: 33 Best Online 3D Printing Services of 2018

All3DP also offers a service that lets you compare the costs of popular 3D printing services.

The featured image is a collage from two images by Stefan Schweihofer and Hans Braxmeier, via Pixabay.

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September 3, 2018 at 02:55PM
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Weekend Project: Crank Out the Fun with This 3D Printed Manivelle Water Gun

Weekend Project: Crank Out the Fun with This 3D Printed Manivelle Water Gun
By Tyler Koslow

The summer might be coming to a close, but that doesn’t mean you can’t soak your friends and family in a water fight. Spray the day away with this 3D printed Manivelle Water Gun designed by maker Hassan Nasser. 

Many of us can recall our fond summer memories of neighborhood water fights, from the strong spray of a Super Soaker to the surprise splash of water balloons. While this summer season may be coming to a close, one maker named Hassan Nasser has shared an awesome 3D printing project that will keep you in the pool until the Autumn leaves have taken over.

His DIY Manivelle Water Gun is a crank-based water gun that is entirely made from 3D printed parts. It uses a crank mechanism to spin a fan and shoot out water from the head of the device. It doesn’t look like your average water gun, instead resembling some kind of leaf blower or handheld vacuum cleaner.

It’s unique, easy to make, and most importantly, will provide immense enjoyment for the waning summer days. Let’s take a closer look at this project and how you can make one yourself.

3D Printed Manivelle Water Gun: What You Need & How to Build it

In order to build this crank-based water gun yourself,  all you need is a 3D printer, some filament, and a hot glue gun. The designer has shared the STL files and assembly instructions on Instructables, where he details the role of each 3D printed part. Since this project will come in contact with a fair amount of water, it’s probably wise to use a material like PETG.

The Manivelle Water Gun consists of various 3D printed parts, including the fan, base, cover, head of the gun, handle, and even a 3D printed screw. The maker mentions that a metallic screw can be used to maintain the strength and durability of the crank gun.

Nasser showcases the assembly process for the Manivelle Water Gun through a screenshot of his Tinkercad design. All you have to do is connect all of the parts using a hot glue gun.

It’s a simple and easy project that will result in a lot of fun for the whole family. It might not have the pizazz or spray radius of an original Super Soaker, it’s still a great example of how 3D printing can lead to some fun in the sun. You can learn more about this project on Instructables, or download the STL files directly from MyMiniFactory.

The post Weekend Project: Crank Out the Fun with This 3D Printed Manivelle Water Gun appeared first on All3DP.

September 2, 2018 at 05:05PM
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Weekend Project: 3D Print Your Own Wind Turbine Model

Weekend Project: 3D Print Your Own Wind Turbine Model
By Tyler Koslow

Want to teach your kids about the power of renewable energy? Or just want to build your own wind turbine replica? Then check out this 3D printed wind turbine model created by maker Luc Tellier.

If you’ve ever driven past a batch of towering wind turbines on a rural road, you know just how mesmerizing these larger-than-life structures really are. Wind power has become an integral part of the world’s renewable energy movement, and will only grow in prominence as society shifts towards more environmentally-friendly resources.

Obviously, a full-sized wind turbine is much too large to be created on your desktop 3D printer. But if you want to create a small-scale model that actually spins, maker and Thingiverse user Luc Tellier has created the perfect project for you.

The Eolienne Wind Turbine is a 3D printed educational model that has been produced at three different scales (1/100, 1/200, 1/400). Tellier created the model for his wife, who is teaching students about renewable energy and wind turbines. No, these models won’t provide any power to your home, but they are great for educational purposes or even decoration.

The maker recently shared his project to Thingiverse, so we thought we’d share an overview for all of you who are searching for a gust of creativity over the weekend. Here’s what you need to know in order to build your own 3D printed wind turbine model.

3D Printed Wind Turbine: What You Need & How to Build it

The STL files for the wind turbine model are available via Thingiverse. Some of the parts will require support structures and should be printed with 30 percent infill.

Other non-printed components that you need will depend on which scale you decide to print the model. For instance, the 1/100 model utilizes a 3V battery, while the middle sized one uses four AA batteries. The smallest model doesn’t have any power source, as the maker was unable to find a motor that fit inside of it.

You can use a variety of gear motors, which will also depend on the scale of the model. For the assembly process, the maker suggests using wood screws (3 x 16 mm) for the holes and head location that are implemented into the 3D printed parts. There are also LEDs added to the top of the wind turbine, providing an even more realistic feel to the scale model.

While these models can’t be used to power anything, the motors will simulate the impact that wind has on the turbine blades. Since Tellier’s project has already garnered so much interest, he’s now planning to create a version that is able to generate power in the near future.

If you want to learn more about the assembly process, how to optimize the printing process and what else you need to create your own 3D printed wind turbine, check out the project details on Thingiverse!

The post Weekend Project: 3D Print Your Own Wind Turbine Model appeared first on All3DP.

September 1, 2018 at 05:05PM
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