There’s More To Designing A PCB Business Card Than Meets The Eye
By Jenny List
A curious custom that survives from the pre-computer era is that of the business card. If you walk the halls at a trade event you’ll come a way with a stack of these, each bearing the contact details of someone you’ve encountered, and each in a world of social media and online contact destined to languish in some dusty corner of your desk. In the 21st century, when electronic contacts harvested by a mobile phone have the sticking power, how can a piece of card with its roots in a bygone era hope to compete?
It’s a question [Anthony Kouttron] has addressed in the design of his thoroughly modern business card, and along the way he’s treated us to an interesting narrative on how to make the card both useful beyond mere contact details as well as delivering that electronic contact. The resulting card has an array of rulers and footprints as an electronic designer’s aid, as well as an NFC antenna and chip that lights an LED and delivers his website address when scanned. There are some small compromises such as PCB pads under the NFC antenna, but as he explains in the video below, they aren’t enough to stop it working. He’s put his work in a GitHub repository, should you wish to do something similar.
A Foolproof Raspberry Pi Media Player
By Lewin Day
The media landscape in the home has changed precipitously over the years. Back in the days when torrents were king, DVD players and TVs started to sprout USB ports and various methods of playing digital videos, while hackers repurposed office machines and consoles into dedicated media boxes. [Roiy Zysman] is a fan of a clean, no-fuss approach, so built his PiVidBox along those lines.
The build, unsurprisingly, starts with a Raspberry Pi. Cheap, capable of playing most common codecs, and fitted with an HDMI port as standard, it’s a perfect platform for the job. Rather than fiddle with complex interfaces or media apps, instead, the PiVidBox uses a simple script. The Pi is configured to continually scan the /media folder for mounted devices, and play any videos it comes across. Simply pop in an SD card or USB drive, and the content starts rolling. No buttons, remotes, or keyboards needed!
It’s a interface without much flexibility, but it makes up for that in barebones simplicity. We can imagine it would come in handy for a conference room or other situation where users grow tired of messing around with configurations to get screens to work. The Raspberry Pi makes a rather excellent basis for a media player build, and we’ve seen some stunning examples in the past!
The method involves training a Convolutional Neural Network (CNN) on a large batch of photos, which have been converted to the Lab colorspace. In this colorspace, images are made up of 3 channels – lightness, a (red-green), and b (blue-yellow). This colorspace is used as it better corresponds to the nature of the human visual system than RGB. The model is then trained such that when given a lightness channel as an input, it can predict the likely a & b channels. These can then be recombined into a colorized image, and converted back to RGB for human consumption.
It’s a technique capable of doing a decent job on a wide variety of material. Things such as grass, countryside, and ocean are particularly well dealt with, however more complicated scenes can suffer from some aberration. Regardless, it’s a useful technique, and far less tedious than manual methods.
The aim was to create a keyboard well suited to working without a mouse, and with a keypad on the opposite side to suit a left-hander’s predilections. The case consists of an aluminium top plate with an attractive walnut base, both cut on a Workbee CNC machine. Keycaps are sourced from YDMK and Amazon, with the parts chosen giving the build a striking early 1980s workstation look.
The keys are handwired to a series of DuPont connectors for easy disassembly. These hook up to an Elite-C controller, a USB-C remix of the popular Arduino Pro Micro. Based on the ATmega32U4, it’s got native USB HID functionality, making it perfect for keyboard builds.
The fit and finish is what really makes this project, going to show that a few hours well spent on the CNC can turn you out a beautiful project. As far as mechanical keyboards go, your imagination really is the limit!
A Mechanical Shutter Release For A Digital Camera
By Lewin Day
Most digital cameras these days come with some kind of electronic remote shutter release. Various solutions exist, using USB cables, smartphone apps, or dedicated remotes. [Steloherd] wasn’t happy with the options available for his Ricoh GRII, though, so built a rig to do things the old fashioned way.
[Steloherd] wanted to use an old-school mechanical release cable, so devised a way to use it to trigger the Ricoh’s standard shutter button. A small aluminium bracket was created, attached to the hot shoe on top of the camera via a mounting foot from a standard flash accessory. A spring plate was then created to help spread the load from the mechanical release pin, ensuring it triggers the camera effectively without damaging anything.
Installing the mechanical release proved difficult, as the DIN standard calls for an obscure M3.4 conical tapped thread. Rather than muck about finding rare tooling, [Steloherd] simply recut the thread on the release cable to a straight M3x0.5, and did the same for the bracket.
Overall, it’s a tidy hack, and one that could be adapted to other cameras fairly easily. Other methods we’ve seen involve such odd choices as linear actuators harvested from air fresheners, if you’d believe it. As always, if it works, it works!
This RGB Tree Has its Roots in a PCB
By Gerrit Coetzee
[Paczkaexpress]’s RGB tree is a mix of clever building techniques and artistic form that come together into quite a beautiful sculpture.
The branches of his tree are made from strands of enameled copper wire capped with an RGB LED and terminated in a female header. The separate wires are all wound and sculpted into the form of a tree. The wire is covered in a very thin layer of plastic, which we highly recommend observing under a microscope, that allow it to maintain a uniform and reflective copper color without shorting, adding to the effect.
The part we found an especially pleasing mix of form and function was how the “roots” of the tree clicked home in the PCB base. The PCB holds the STM32, power components, and an LED Driver. It doesn’t hide how the magic works, and the tree really does get its nutrients from the soil it’s planted in. This would be a fun kit to build. Very clever and you can see the final effect after the break.
A Newbie Takes the SMD Challenge at Supercon
By Dan Maloney
First-time visitors to Disneyworld often naively think they’re going to “do” the park in three days: one day for the Magic Kingdom, one day for Epcot, and one day for everything else. It’s easy to spot such people, collapsed on a bench or dragging exhausted kids around while trying to make their way to the next must-see attraction. Supercon is something like that — a Disney-esque theme park for hackers that will exhaust you if you don’t have a plan, and if you don’t set reasonable expectations. Which is why I was glad that I set only one real goal for my first Supercon: take the SMD Soldering Challenge.
Now, while I’m pretty handy with a soldering iron, I was under no illusion that I would be at all competitive. All my soldering experience has been with through-hole components, and while I also used to doing some production soldering on fine-pitch connectors, the whole surface-mount thing is new to me. I entered mainly because I wanted to see what was possible coming in raw. At best I’d learn what my limits are, and at worst I’d fail spectacularly and provide grist for a “Fail of the Supercon” post. It’s a win either way.
Scoping It Out
I decided to get the challenge out of the way as quickly as possible, so I started sharking around the table early in the afternoon on Friday. As he did last year, Al Williams was running the station. I signed up for the 4:30 heat and hung around a bit to get enough of an idea of what to do to not embarrass myself. It looked like everything was laid out really well. Each station had a good quality soldering station, a lighted magnifier, a few hand tools like flush cutters, pliers, and the all-important tweezers, and a roll of fine solder. There were a bunch of shared tools and supplies too, like desoldering braid, solder suckers, flux pens, and an LED tester. I watched enough of the action to get an idea of the workflow.
When it came time for my heat, I settled into my station and got things squared away. They thoughtfully provided magnifier hoods so that those of us with older eye could partake, and I got mine set up just the way I like it. The rules are simple: you get five minutes to open your kit and scan for missing parts, and to ask any questions you might have. After that, it’s 35 minutes to solder up everything, and each board is graded on function, neatness, and time.
The kit is a simple blinky, powered by a coin cell with an ATtiny85 driving five LEDs. The current limiting resistors and LED footprints start at 1206 and go down to a ridiculous 0201. When I opened mine, I knew the toughest part wouldn’t be the soldering itself, it would be getting the components free from their carriers. The components were helpfully segregated by size but taped down to a piece of paper. Adhesive tape and I are old enemies, so I knew there’d be trouble.
A Man With a Plan
I worked out a quick strategy: tape the PCB down and start with the largest components. I’ve watched enough soldering videos on YouTube to know that flux is your friend, so I got busy with the flux pen. I added a dab of solder to one of the ATtiny85 pads and tacked that in place. It’s about this time that I noticed the soldering iron tip was not exactly ideal — a chisel point — which looked massive even next to the fine pins on the SOIC package. I was surprised by how easily the chip soldered down, likely more a testimony to the ample use of flux and the good quality solder masking on the PCB.
I decided to get the cap and the first resistor and LED soldered down to make sure I had the polarity right. I assumed that the blinky would blink even if only partially assembled, an assumption borne out once I soldered down the coin cell holder (upside down, d’oh!) and slipped the battery in. My earlier fear that getting access to the components would be the bottleneck were well-founded; just getting the cover tapes peeled off the carriers was a tedious, time-consuming job. But I kept going with the next size down, the 0805s, without much trouble.
Just about then, someone called time, only about 8 minutes in. Oh perfect, I thought – I’m not even a third of the way done. But as I said, I wasn’t trying to be competitive, so I shrugged it off and kept going. The 0603s were a little tougher, but I still managed to get them soldered down. I found the LEDs to be the most challenging; figuring out the polarity was tough with the smaller sizes. The wheels finally fell off for me with the 0402s. I managed to get the resistor on, and the LED, but I must have reversed the polarity because the LED wouldn’t light. I tried unsoldering it and reversing it, but all I managed to do was turn it into a molten blob. I called it at 33 minutes, and Al generous scored me a 3.25 out of a possible 5.
Records for the SMD Challenge have been falling all weekend. The winner last year put in an amazing 16 minute time. This year, Fred T. set the record with a mind-boggling time of 6:45! Contributing Editor Tom Nardi was watching that heat, and said, “The guy looked like he was just vibrating!” And the quality was top notch — it certainly looks hand-soldered rather than reflowed, but amazing nonetheless.
All in all, I really enjoyed taking the SMD Challenge. I learned a ton, and I feel like I added another skill to my repertoire. I’ve got several designs in the works that I was planning on making through-hole simply because I hadn’t taken the leap into SMD yet. Now that I have, I’ll have to rework the design and join the cool kids on the surface-mount side of the street.