KMZ FT-2 Panoramic Camera Film Cassette
Film Cassette for KMZ FT-2 panoramic camera.
This is a crazy camera from 1950’s USSR. The predecessor to the far more common Horizont and Horizon 202 panoramic cameras of the 1980s. There’s quite a lot about it online if you Google for it.
I have an associated blog post here: http://www.hyam.net/blog/archives/10727
The FT-2 takes non-standard 35mm cassettes. My camera came with two which made it useable but frustrating if I wanted to go out with only 2 frames left on the current roll. The solution is to print some more.
There are some challenges in that the space for the cassette in the camera is only 39mm high but the film is, of course, 35mm high. This leaves just 2mm top and bottom for the lid/base and the spindle top. I’ve therefore left the bottom ring off the spindle and replaced it with a peg in the base of the cassette. The top ring is still fragile. I’m more interested in photography than 3D printing so am not going to wrestle for hours to print at less than 0.8mm in regular PLA on a cheap printer!
I designed it in OpenSCAD. The SCAD Code is not elegant. It is just something functional to do what I need. You may need to tweak it for your printer as the tolerances are tight.
No attempt is made to keep this pretty so SCAD drafts renderings will look odd because of the overlapping surfaces. Do a full render to see the models properly.
Print 0.16mm regular black PLA. I use a XVICO X3S – very cheap printer.
The lid is rendered the “wrong” way around. This is because it is easier to flip it on the z-axis when it is imported into the slicing software than mess around in code trying to get it right. Feel free to mess around in the code and improve on this 🙂
The spindle needs to be printed on a 45 degree slope with some support. At 45 degrees the support stuff shouldn’t get on the top surface of the disc. Amount of support and angle will vary. I had some failures. It is also a fraction too long by design. During finishing sand the top down to fit the camera snuggly.
The body should be lined on the walls with “felt”. Cut a strip 36mm wide and long enough to go around the cassette and out the film slot. After it is stuck down trim most of it off leaving just a little sticking out. I use sticky back Fablon Velour (it is used on card tables and that kind of thing). CS glue it if it comes loose.
Scanner Frame (lid and base)
This can be used to scan on an Epson V800. It is about the right focus distance. Put a tape hinge on one side and tape tags on the other. You’ll need to trick the scanner into thinking that is it looking at a negative frame by leaving a gap near the top. You can work this out by looking at the negative holders that come with the scanner if you haven’t done it before or look at Ben Horne’s 8×10 scanning mask for a clue (Google it).
You can use this to stand the scanner frame on a regular light table if you are going to digitise with a camera. I designed it to fit the Intrepid 4×5 enlarger light source which I use fo digitising regular 35mm film.
- Feed and take up cassettes are identical but the feed side is upside-down.
- Do NOT tape film in feed cassette as you will lose your last frame unless you then open the camera in a changing bag.
- Do tape film in take up cassette as so you can be sure to pull it through.
- Leaving a tape tag sticking out the side of the cassette make it much easier to pull the cassette out of the camera and saves you getting your keys or a screw driver out.
- Remember closest focus is 15m (45ft) away! Maybe 30ft if you don’t blow the image up.
- Remember you are mad to even consider using this camera.
License is free to do what you like but a credit would be appreciated.
Roger Hyam (email@example.com) 2021-11-03
December 3, 2021 at 09:45PM
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